Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23

Thread: Making another gas bottle forge

  1. #1
    Native beermaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yarm, North Yorkshire
    Posts
    442

    Making another gas bottle forge

    I'm loving the little forge I made from a gas bottle and I learned an awful lot making it and modifying it. However, the stuff I'm making now means the actual forge itself is a bit small. I don't want anything too big as, until I get the new shed built (at which point the forge moves indoors and will be at least 2' by 2' purpose built!) I do all my smithing outside and need something portable so I've begun making another forge.

    The design criteria were 1. must be as cheap as possible! 2. must use reclaimed materials where possible 3. must be able to get decent lengths of steel into it

    Started by scrounging an old gas bottle off the scrap heap at work (15kg butane). This is a good size as it's wide so will allow a decent sized fire. Following the usual precautions (neck off the valve, leave upside down for a day, fill with water for a few days - probably overkill but I'm still alive and intact and I like it that way!) I set about cutting it in half lengthways. To do this, first I drained the water. This can take ages, but I drilled a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the bottle to let air in as the water came out and it was done in no time! I then made a shallow cradle from wood offcuts to hold the bottle still on its side and made a mark on a stick which corresponded with the half-way height of the bottle. Using the stick, I was able to make marks all round the bottle at the half-way height and join the dots to get a cutting line before breaking out the angle grinder and cutting in half. I use the very thin "stainless steel" cutting disks - they melt through all manner of steels in no time at all and they're cheap as chips from the local autojumble! I ended up with this:




    Last night I set about making the tuyere (the pipe the air goes through to the fire pot). I still had some of that 2" square hollow section steel tube left over from the last forge build (reclaimed from an old glass cutting bench in a factory) so out came the grinder and welder. I founc that two lengths, about 8" long, were about right. I used the grinder to cut a square hole in the side of one tube, over which the second tube was welded.


    The parts ready to weld


    Tacked together, check everything is still in alignment before fully welding


    All welded up!

    Next step was to mark out the position of the corresponding hole in the bottle and cut it. I used a strip of paper to measure the distance round the half-bottle from one side to the other, then folded it in half to get the half way point. Here, I centrepunched the steel and used a hole saw to cut the hole. A few notes on holesaws and steel: The Aldi ones are very good so no need to spend a small fortune on Starrett, unless you want to! Steel can be very snatchy - set your drill to its lowest gearbox setting and if it has a speed control too, keep the speed low! And don't pish too hard - as I learnt at engineering college - the secret to steel is rock bottom speed, rock bottom feed! And use plenty of oil, it'll prolong the life of your holesaw, make the job easier and reduce snatching. WD40, 3-in-1, Rocol, 151 superspray, good old fashioned White Water, any of them will do, just don't be shy with it!


    the centrepunched position and the hole saw - Aldi's best!


    The finished hole!

    Last job was to weld the tuyere assembly to the bottle over the hole. First job, clean all the oil off! Cotton rag and degreaser here (or, if you're a yorkshire lad like me, an old pair of pants and the wifes nail varnish remover! Shhhh! Don't tell her!) Next, remove the paint from the surrounding area on both bits of metal and chamfer the edges slightly on the tuyere. Cleanliness is next to Godliness when it comes to welding! I had to dress the edges of the tuyere to make a good fit to the bottle as the bottle is curved and there was also a weld line around the bottle. Once you have a good fit, tack it together with a few spots of weld, you can then check the alignment and adjust it if needs be. Once you're happy, pour in the amps and get it all welded up and it should end up looking something like this!



    and from the inside:


    Quite pleased with this for a nights work! Got some old table legs from a "tasteful" table my folks got back in the 80's which will form the stand and a bit lump of steel to make a baffle off the back hitch of a tractor, but thats for another time! Total material cost so far - Nowt!

    Wassail!
    Phil

  2. #2
    One with Nature
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    "Always remember, no matter where you go there you are."
    Posts
    1,904
    hello,
    In my best John Noakes of Blue Peter fame accent, "Made from some sticky back plastic & a pair of Val's old knickers.." Well done that lad. Looking forward to some *Beermaker brand forged items.
    Regards
    David


  3. #3
    Native beermaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yarm, North Yorkshire
    Posts
    442
    It certainly feels like a Blue Peter special David!! Just come out of the shed after another hours grinding and welding - progress so far......

    I've raided my offcuts bin to make a couple of spacers and used these to weld the tasteful 80's table legs into a stand. I also added a bit of rod at the top which serves to stiffen the frame up and also as somewhere to hang tongs and tools! Frame looks a little like this....


    Excuse the poor photography - it was dark!

    The idea had been to mount the bottle transversely and use bolts so it would come off easily......


    .....but then I thought to myself "self - how often are you going to unbolt the thing and why are you making things harder than they need to be?" So, with that in mind I mounted in line instead and was much happier!


    Welded it on, although not too happy with the welds as they were a pig to get to! With hindsight, I might use a couple more bits of scrap to make pillow blocks which will support it better and make the welding easier and neater but that'll wait for now.



    Now that the frame and the body were joined as one, it was time to turn to the hearth/diffuser. I learnt the last time that thin metal was no good for this and will last precisely no time at all. This time, I was able to lay my hands to an old spacer plate from the rear hitch of a Ford tractor! This was 10mm thick so "should" last a while! It's also really big so should diffuse the heat from the fire, especially with it being hollow underneath with the cold air blowing onto it (hopefully!) The only problem was it has four 17mm bolt holes in it. I was going to weld them up but then I thought to myself again "Self - why are you making things hard again?" So I raided the scrap bucket again and got some 15mm round bar, cut four slugs and welded these in from both sides! Less rods, less electric and less time!


    Last job of the night was to dress the raised weld inside the bottle so that the plate sat flush along it's edges.


    Next jobs: make some curved plates and welding them to the ends of the diffuser to block the ends off, drill holes for the air blast, tack the diffuser in place (I'm not fully welding it - it'll make it easier to replace when needed!), fabricate some means of closing off the cinder trap, make a gate valve and hose mount for the air inlet on the tuyere and line the forge with cement and vermiculite. After that, it should be ready for a test firing!!!

  4. #4
    Native beermaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yarm, North Yorkshire
    Posts
    442
    Some more progress tonight, and a little bit of stupidity. Grinding without goggles is stupid. I'll be going to Arco tomorrow for a new pair after my wife had to get grit and swarf out of my eye.

    Anyway, back to it. Tonights tasks mostly involved getting the final bits of metalwork done. I used a piece of card to make a template of the space between the bottom of the baffle and the side of the bottle which I could then use to make two metal inserts which would be welded to the baffle to make a plenum chamber.


    Fairly easy task, roughly cut the card to shape and then used a pencil to scribe a line on the card and trimmed to suit. Once done, the shape was traced on to a couple of bits of scrap steel from the scrap bin and the shapes were cut out and ground to shape with the angle grinder. These were then welded to the bottom of the steel baffle plate, which then looked like this.


    The welding's not exactly Lloyds Register standard but it'll do the job! Next task - drill out holes for the air to come through. I centre punched and drilled 9 holes using a 6mm bit to give a pilot. This went easily enough, but then I got stupid and lazy and tried to go though with a 12mm bit without clamping down. When a slab of steel 10mm thick and 120mm x 200mm suddenly snatches and swings round, your nipsy really does nip! Doesn't help that my pillar drill has a 1 horse motor on it! I bucked my ideas up and clamped down for the remainder of the holes! The plate now looks like this:



    The baffle was then put into the forge and tacked into place with two tack welds. I want to be able to get it back out without too much hassle later if I need to, but at the same time be secure enough to be able to drill extra holes if needed. I also welded lugs to the tuyere to attach a sliding gate valve for the air inlet and to attach a plate over the cinder trap. I've decided not to use a hinged counterbalanced plate, mostly because it was more work to make it, unless of course my dad wants to make me one like he did with the last forge!

    Last job of the night was to cut two bits of plywood from a piece of scrap I had in the shed to make the sliding gate valve. On one of these, I marked out the location where the air hole will go and where the sliding steel plate will go. I then used the router to cut a recess for the plate. Please excuse the roughness - I routed it free hand!


    So, nearly ready to fire the thing! Only jobs to do now are to caulk the baffle/plenum and line out with fire clay and vermiculite, finish making the gate valve, make a plate to cover the cinder trap, and thats about it! Three nights so far, zero expense on materials so far and nearly got another forge made! Hope this inspires someone else to have a go too (usual disclaimers about safety/liability apply!)

  5. #5
    Tribesman Thumbcrusher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Middlesbrough
    Posts
    719
    If there are no women around and a man says something, is he still wrong?

  6. #6
    Native beermaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yarm, North Yorkshire
    Posts
    442
    Got a couple of pots of fire cement today and got some vermiculite from the allotment association (loads cheaper than the garden centre!!) Will get it lined out once the sprog is in bed 😊

  7. #7
    One with Nature
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    "Always remember, no matter where you go there you are."
    Posts
    1,904
    hello,
    A information doc .pdf everyday uses of vermiculite.
    Regards
    David

    vermiculite-datasheet.pdf

  8. #8
    Native beermaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yarm, North Yorkshire
    Posts
    442
    Cheers for the info David! It really is odd stuff, weighs next to nothing but massively heat resistant and insulating! Got the forge lit tonight on wood; I had written a load last night but then my computer went wappy and I couldn't face writing it again so got extra to do tonight!

    Anyway, first thing was to get the sliding gate valve finished. I marked out the positions of the two bolt holes which will hold it onto the forge via the lugs on the tuyere. I drilled a recess deep enough to take the heads of the two bolts I would use, using a forstner bit (a kind of flat bottomed drill bit similar to the end of an auger bit).


    once that was done, I used a hole saw to make the holes for the air to pass through. Good tip with a hole saw is, if you want a clean edge on both sides, cut through until the pilot drill breaks out the other side and then turn the wood over and cut from the other side. Before I turned over though, I clamped both bits of wood together and used the pilot drill to mark the hole position in the second piece of wood. Once both bits of wood had had the holes cut in, the second piece then had a series of clearance holes drilled in for the screws to hold the assembly together. They now look like this.....


    I then bolted the first piece to the tuyere using M6 gutter bolts as they have broad but flat heads.


    I fettled the air hole in the second piece of plywood using a half round file to ensure that the air hose was a snug friction fit into it and this was then screwed onto the first piece.


    Once done, another piece of plywood was cut and drilled to cover the cinder trap and attached using M6 bolts and wing nuts. The forge now looks like this...



    Next job was to line it out. I used a mix of Screwfix own brand fire cement and vermiculite from the Allotment Association at a ratio of 2 parts vermiculite to one part cement. I also added a little extra water to make the mix pliable enough to work. The inside of the forge were wetted and the mixture was put in and built up to a dept of around 1 inch, before being left to cure for a day or two. I've left the air holes uncovered, but if they show signs of burning out, I'll plug them with some rods and then put more cement in to cover the steel and then remove the rods so the air passes through the cement.


    The forge was left in the dining room overnight next to the radiator (understanding wife!!) and then out in the sun today and after about 30 hours it was pretty dry and hard. The moment of truth - I had a wood fire in it to bake the cement. I built up the heat very gently as I wanted to dry out any residual moisture, but a rapid rise in heat could cause any moisture to turn to steam and break the lining, or worse, make it explode! Luckily, all went well and the forge seemed to burn really well with a good broad fire.





    The lining is now dry and very hard. Tomorrow, all being well, there'll be the first firing on coke and then it's playtime!!

  9. #9
    One with Nature
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    "Always remember, no matter where you go there you are."
    Posts
    1,904
    hello,
    We have fire..
    Regards
    David

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Image 1.jpg 
Views:	173 
Size:	34.1 KB 
ID:	13179

  10. #10
    Ranger OakAshandThorn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Connecticut ~ New England
    Posts
    2,465
    Great project!
    My blog, New England Bushcraft

    "Give me six hours to chop down a tree, and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe."
    ~ Abraham Lincoln

    "Be prepared, not scared."
    ~ Cody Lundin

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •