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Thread: Tigger's Crusader lid

  1. #31
    Bushman Blood's Avatar
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    Does it work mike? Job done then :-)
    Winter is coming

  2. #32
    Trapper NorthernYeti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blood View Post
    Does it work mike? Job done then :-)
    If you don't mind metal splinters in your fingers yeah

    Sent from my LG-E400 using Tapatalk 2
    There is pleasure in the pathless woods, There is a rapture on the lonely shore, There is society, where none intrudes,
    By the deep sea, and music in its roar, I love not man the less, but Nature more.

  3. #33
    Samuel Hearne Bernie's Avatar
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    You just need to sand the edges. I use emery cloth. I buy it in huge reels and just tear off pieces as I need them.

    I use the 240 grit most. A 50m roll, 25mm wide (about an inch) can be purchased from these suppliers:

    Screwfix @ £15.99
    Toolstation @ £10.65

    Mine has lasted me years so far and I use it quite a lot for woodturning as well as these sorts of projects.

  4. #34
    Alone in the Wilderness
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    Crusader cup lid

    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie View Post
    I thought this was such a good modification that it deserved a thread of it's own.

    Tigger004 posted photos of the lids he made for his Crusader and Dutch Mug on the "What have you made now" thread. This impressed a few of us and he was kind enough to share his process and supplier with us:





    I bought mine from the same place and it only cost me £2.25 for a 200 x 300mm sheet in the same thickness (1.2mm).

    I thought it would be useful to see the process in pictures. I like photos. So here's how I did. I must say that Tigger seems to have a way with the Aluminium that I don't. Mine didn't turn out quite as nice as his, but I'm still chuffed to bits.

    I found a piece of old kitchen cabinet from the neighbour who had her solid Cherry wood doors replaced with plastic coated MDF. She's happy, I'm delighted. Following his instructions, I traced around the lip of the mug.



    I decided to use my scroll saw, but in hindsight I would've done better on the bandsaw. I don't like how scroll saws require me to press the wood down.


    I cut well outside the line because I was having trouble directing the cut.


    A little bit on the belt sander with 40-grit soon had it down to the line.


    Now it came time to trace around the wood onto the Aluminium. I'm not sure which is technically the nice side; I presume under the protective film lies a clean finish. I traced around the former onto the exposed side. I decided to use a washer for this so I found one that had a "wall" thickness of nearly 8mm which would give me enough lip. In hindsight I think Tigger was right to reduce the size of the lip because there's less metal to crinkle as it's wrapped over the edge.


    This shows how the washer is used to trace the outline. I was holding the template in place but had to use my hand to take the photo.


    Next came the cutting. I clamped the sheet between the former and a plank of wood in the vice. I tried a coping saw with a very fine blade and was impressed that a blade usually used for wood could cut the Aluminium. But after a little while it was too much and I heard a "plink" as the blade snapped. But I'd cut most of the shape out. I finished the cuts with a hack saw.


    A few minutes on the belt sander (I love my belt sander) had the Aluminium almost down to the line:


    Clamped in the wooden jaws of the vice with the former stuck in place with double-sided tape, I started the tapping. I was impressed with how easily it bent over the edges of the template.


    It was soon after this point that I decided the double sided tape should be removed or I might never be able to separate the two. I continued to tap my way around the edge, moving the template and metal together. I had no problem forming it over the convex curves.


    I thought all was lost when I came to try form it over the points and into the concave of the kidney shape:


    But I carried on thinking I'll just keep at it, and before I knew it, the Aluminium had managed to form all around the template and I was able to remove it.


    I went inside for a test fit... it fits!


    Much thinking was done about the handle. I like Tigger's rubber ring that folds down and makes it flatter when packed. I was going to turn a wooden handle and then thought better of it because it'd always be in the way. I thought I'll try do what he did. So I cut a little piece of Aluminium from the end that was left on the sheet and drilled holes and formed it into a handle holder.






    I measured and marked the centre of the lid and drilled holes for the rivets so that the clip would be in the centre.


    I had to remove the film before riveting and saw the lovely brushed Aluminium under the film. I was contemplating a key ring but it was so tiny that it would be hard to get a hold of when the lid was hot, and it would make a noise.


    But I didn't have a nice big O-Ring like Tigger. What to do...

    In the mean time I realised I had not drilled the steam/draining holes. With a little help from some graph paper I marked out what I thought would be ample holes.


    Off to the drill press again and I drilled these holes with the smallest bit I have. It's around 1mm. I don't want food running out, and water will find it's way through the smallest holes. The drill bit left a few burs which I didn't want to sand away because I'd scratch the nice surface.


    The inside was even worse:


    I removed the burs with a 2mm drill bit - this was fiddly work.




    Looks about ready to assemble:


    I decided to go with the metal ring after all, but I did a little Macramé with Jute to make it thicker and absort heat and sound. I like it.


    Two quick rivets later, the lid was officially finished.




    My sincere thanks to Tigger for his idea and instructions. This was a cheap and fun little project that'll help cook my noodles more quickly and keep my food warm on cold days out.
    Great job there well done. Do you think it will work out as good using stainless steel from the ebay site you posted. (cooker splash back sheet)
    Hamygray...

  5. #35
    Tribal Elder shepherd's Avatar
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    just seen this thread for the first time... cracking mod mate!

  6. #36
    Samuel Hearne Bernie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hamygray View Post
    Great job there well done. Do you think it will work out as good using stainless steel from the ebay site you posted. (cooker splash back sheet)
    Hamygray...
    I'm not sure... I think you might have more trouble hammering the SS around the form. But you know; nothing ventured nothing gained. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

  7. #37
    Samuel Hearne Bernie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shepherd View Post
    just seen this thread for the first time... cracking mod mate!
    Thanks bud. It's been ages since I made that.

  8. #38
    Samuel Hearne Bernie's Avatar
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    Okay, I've had a go. For the impatient, it's doable but I didn't enjoy it and I wouldn't do it again. Read on for the entertainment factor if you wish...

    Step one, spend ages finding the template I made back along.

    Step two, get the old fat fryer and find a place where it fits. Then give up on that because it's the best clear section so remove the handles from the sides and decide to use a side.


    Trace around the template using a wide brim washer.


    Find cutting discs and angle grinder (no way am I cutting this by hand).


    Safety first - sparks are going to fly.


    Angle grinder doesn't work. Switch clicks but nothing doing. Let out a deep sigh to avoid getting angry at this point. Take the thing inside and check the fuse with the multimeter. Nope, fuse is fine. Sense anger boiling up inside. I paid a lot for this Makita with the expectation it would last longer than this. Return to garage (erm, "workshop") and open the handle to check brushes. Nope, they're fine. Nothing looks burnt out. Hmmm. Looks at plug. Plug in extension lead. Looks at extension lead (was working just hours ago). Follows lead to plug. Sees plug is near a camping table that was recently moved. Fiddle plug and switch off and on again. Flick switch. Grinder works! Slump in frustration at own stupidity for not following own rule: always check the simplest things first.

    Nibble around the shape.


    Switch to grinding wheel/disc to smooth the edge:


    Done in seconds. Love my grinder. Good grinder. Sorry I blamed you.


    Clamp steel and template in vice. Select a suitable hammer (I don't think a soft mallet is going to cut it).


    Start tapping. See nothing happening. Start giving it some. Sides folding out so clamp them in place.


    Yes. Sides have rolled up like a smile. Smiling at my failure. We'll see who's boss in a minute you pesky little slice of steel...


    Doing slightly better at the other end:


    Stop the mini blog because the rest of the photos haven't synchronised to Google yet. SIGH (again).

    / to be continued...

  9. #39
    Samuel Hearne Bernie's Avatar
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    Beat the daylights out of the thin steel sheet. Find that, unlike Aluminium, it doesn't stretch and compress the same. It rolls and folds. So the concave section ends up rolling over itself.



    Not only that, but the template has taken a beating in the process. Thinking making a male and female form from something stronger and just using a press would be better.


    The edge is a mess. Crinkle cut wavy mess.


    But it fits, and it holds even at an angle.


    Aluminium versus Stainless Steel.




    I know which one I prefer.


    It fits this style crusader.


    Verdict: I prefer the Aluminium one. I'll just make sure I use an appropriately sized cooker to avoid melting the Aluminium.

  10. #40
    Samuel Hearne
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    I was thinking of using some thin stainless steel sheet that I got a long time ago to make a lid for my crusader as the one I bought is heavy but never got around to it, I might see if I can get someone to weld a inner rim inside the same as the heavy SS one.

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