Powered Augers?

[Magicdave]

I just got a couple of augers, I'm also waiting for a power drill being delivered. While waiting I gave them a test on a reasonably green piece of 6.5 inch diameter (as measured) apple wood, it was cut from live 2 to 3 weeks ago.

Just to really test things I drilled into the end grain, the drill used was a B&Q home brand drill/driver, as weak as you get, it never mattered if it broke.

And it did break.

The 2 augers are these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005KH8MX0?ref_=pe_1909131_65443131_tnp_email_TE_A MZLdp_1
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005KH946O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

The first test, 400mm (length) x 10mm (diameter) drilled right through the full length no problem, surprisedly happy. The second test, the 240mm (length) x 40mm (diameter) I had doubts about. It burned the motor out just trying to make a cut. It probably got around 5 to 10 degrees into the first cut then sent the power drill to its grave.

I know these little drill/driver's, even the good quality ones aren't up for much. I never expected the 10mm auger to go anywhere with it. But I'm now curious, and not sure whether I should even try it with the "Draper" drill I'm waiting for.

Has anyone used an auger such as this 40mm one that can advise just how much power is needed with them. With thinking of green apple wood end grain in mind it would be great, but we did try it on the side of the log first, that never burned out the motor as we stopped it straight away when it jammed. On the end grain we just went all out knowing the toy drill was a waist of space anyway.

[Dreward]

Augers have been about long before the electric drill was invented, they are originally designed to be used with a Brace. The screw thread at the point/start pulls the cutting edge into the wood and so larger diameter augers need a hell of a lot of torque to remove the amount of wood being cut at each revolution. It can be dangerous if a powerful electric drill suddenly starts to spin when the auger stops cutting or jams. The brace I use was picked up at a car-booty for 50p, still works and gets the job done.....

[Magicdave]

Thanks Dreward, I'm an engineer and happened to know all that. But thanks, you never know when posting, and someone else may find it useful.

Being new to greenwood working this is the first time I've had any need/desire to use augers. I have used carpenters braces, and various hand operated drills in the past.

With this 40mm diameter auger I can't see it being physically possible to build up enough torque with a standard size brace. Neither me nor my mate could get a half revolution (Into Apple End Grain) with a 2 foot adjustable spanner.

[Dreward]

I don't know the name of them, but, you could try a Tap Wrench type thingy large enough to give you the turning torque required.....

[Magicdave]

I don't know the name of them, but, you could try a Tap Wrench type thingy large enough to give you the turning torque required.....

I had considered that, I may well be wrong but I reckon it would need to be at least 6 to 8 foot long and turned by 2 people. I also have a feeling that I would need a very high torque/slow speed pillar drill to power it. Which is a length I'm not going to go for.

[Magicdave]

On further thinking. I'll give it a try on some dry wood.

[Dreward]

Give the local ship yard a knock....they might be able to do it....lol

[Magicdave]

Give the local ship yard a knock....they might be able to do it....lol

Now that's a plan, or I could get the oil rig guys to do it for me.

[Dreward]

Have you tried relieving the wood chips every couple of revs so the auger doesn't clog up in the hole ?

[Magicdave]

I've not even got a full rev yet. It just bites in and jams up. I've been using a 40mm Forstner bit until now. It goes into the side of the log no problem. Going into the end grain I need to drill a little, let the newly exposed wood dry a bit, drill a bit further, repeat etc.

I hoped the auger would eliminate this.

[Dreward]

It's the major difference between cross grain and end grain cutting within wood...it may be a case of having to peck drill your way in as opposed to just ploughing your way through, the end grain won't allow it....

[Dreward]

40mm dia. is also a hefty size that requires a lot of torque....

[Magicdave]

It's the major difference between cross grain and end grain cutting within wood.

I know, I'll give it a try a pice of dry wood through he week and see if that helps, but I think I was just overly hopefully and will need to stick with the Forstner bit for end grain.

[Dreward]

Just a another thought....you may have better joy with a flat bit and and electric drill....you just have to pay attention to the fact the drill can wander as it is cutting....

[Magicdave]

Just a another thought....you may have better joy with a flat bit and and electric drill....you just have to pay attention to the fact the drill can wander as it is cutting....

I just googled "flat bit" It looks to be the same thing I know as a spade bit, I hadn't thought of that. Thanks, I'll give it a try. I've been wondering about drilling a pilot hole for the auger. I think the thread may be pulling it in too fast for the power drill to handle. I'll give that a try too. Maybe starting off a couple of millimetres with the Forstner, followed by he spade might be the best idea.

[Dreward]

You'll drill that hole one day, Dave....best of luck...

[Magicdave]

Cheers, I won't give up on it. I'll bite my way through it if I have to.

[Magicdave]

ust a another thought....you may have better joy with a flat bit and and electric drill

Thanks again, Starting off with the forstner, followed by drilling a pilot hole before getting the depth with a spade bit does the job.

If anyone has use for it I'll stick the 40mm Auger in the for sale section.

[Dreward]

Success....Well done....British Engineers shall not be defeated....

[Magicdave]

For sure, where there's a will there's way.