Slim, minimalist wallet help

[OurJud]

I apologise in advance that this is not directly related to bushcraft, but I'm hoping this can be overlooked in order to help someone new to leather craft.

My current leather goal is the design and manufacture of a slim, minimalist wallet, but I'm struggling with thickness issues.

The 2mm cowhide stuff I usually use for my projects is fine as the outer shell of the wallet, but when I start doubling this up to create the credit card and cash slots, things start to get too bulky.

I've been looking at some leather from my seller on ebay, listed at 1mm and under, but being new to leather craft I'm struggling to visualise what this looks like and what it can be used for. Is this stuff simply the skin of the leather, or does it have some flesh and stability which would stand up to usage as a wallet?

Basically, what I need is some leather that when doubled up to create cash and card slots, would be thin enough to machine sew (my mother's basic, every day sewing machine gets through the 2mm cowhide OK) and yet be strong and durable enough to be used as a wallet.

Any advice much appreciated.

[unicornleather]

1mm should be ok for what you need it for, I have lining hide which is about that thickness and it is quite malleable and easy to use. 2mm is the thickness we'd use for panels and it's quite tough to use if you are not used to it.

[OurJud]

Thanks, unicorn. Does it matter what type of leather I use? My seller on ebay has some sheepskin at just under 1mm, but I have no idea if it's as durable as cow.

[unicornleather]

Sheepskin is a little softer and not as durable as cow hide or as nice looking, cow hide will be a firmer grain, better looking for leathergoods and I would stick to that if I were you. Calf skin is often used too, it will be durable AND as soft as sheepskin.
Sheepskin is a cheaper material to use and we sometimes use basil (sheepskin with all hair/wool removed) as linings in panels.

[OurJud]

I've asked my man on ebay if he can get me some cow at 1mm and he says it shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks for the advice and info on the difference between the leathers.

[unicornleather]

You're welcome, let me know how you get on, Oz

[OurJud]

You're welcome, let me know how you get on, Oz

Will do, Oz. It could be a while before I'm equipped sufficiently to make a start, but I have to resist bodging it if I want a good result.

[unicornleather]

If you are using a sewing machine and you don't already, use safety goggles. It will make you feel stupid but when you are sewing thicker than normal materials the needles can and do snap. I had one years ago shatter and the tip of the needle stuck in my face just below my eye, it taught me a lesson, use goggles!

[OurJud]

Thanks for the warning, Oz, but I've since decided to hand stitch. My mum's sewing machine is a bog standard dress-making type and not even nearly designed for leather. When I was there yesterday testing it out on the thickness of leather I'd be using, it made a horrible CRACK noise. It wasn't the needle breaking so God only knows what I've done, but it didn't sound good.

[unicornleather]

I have a range of machines (about 6 at the last count), starting out with an old Jones domestic (like an old Singer) up to a new Indutrial walking foot Yamata and a old Singer 45k treadle machine that was used in the War effort of WW2 to make tarpaulins. The domestic handles chap suede which is a great deal thicker than the hide you will be using. OLD Singers can handle leather up to 2mm with ease, use a 120 needle, even a fabric point needle will go through soft leather, I use fabric on some leathers and leather point on firm leathers up to 10-12 mm thick.What make and model is your Mum's machine and were you running it too fast?

[OurJud]

What make and model is your Mum's machine and were you running it too fast?

Oh, now you're asking... I really have no idea, but I was test stitching a piece of thin faux leather (actually cut from a Moleskine notebook) to some 2mm cow when that horrible crack noise occurred. We tested it on some scrap fabric afterwards and everything seemed to be working fine, but I'll never forgive myself if I've broken something internally that she discovers at a later date. I don't think I was going too fast, I think it was just a case of me trying to make it do something it wasn't designed to do.