Ok, I thought that last post on page 1 was the end of the thread when I posted. I just found my question had been answered on page 2.
Olive and vegetable cooking oils will go rancid over time
Ok, I thought that last post on page 1 was the end of the thread when I posted. I just found my question had been answered on page 2.
Olive and vegetable cooking oils will go rancid over time
Well, my Gugse has not cracked yet and the other wood bowls are also just fine. And since the gukse is doing the job, I do not use the others for hot liquid anymore, and they seem to handle
warm food well.
Victory awaits the one, that has everything in order - luck we call it
Defeat is an absolute consequense for the one that have neglected to do the necessary preparations - bad luck we call it
(Roald Amundsen)
Bumbling Bushcraft on Youtube
Nordisk Bushcraft - The Nordic bushcraft blog and forum
O' Dave of Magicness, you may find with regular use and washing of the piece it is ok but personally, I wouldn't use olive oil. If you, your family and anyone who may be using the treen you have made, has no sensitivity to nuts then I'd go with readily available walnut oil straight from the supermarket as this will dry before going rank. Tastes good in a salad too! If you fancy a go with pure linseed oil which shouldn't affect nut allergy sufferers then the stuff produced for horse feed is good as again, it will dry in time. See here: http://www.molevalleyfarmers.com/mvf...vf-linseed-oil
"There is a willow grows aslant a brook,
That shows his hoar leaves in the glassy stream." - William Shakespeare
I've been called a lot of things in my time, but that's a first. I was going to change to walnut oil, but now you've brought up another thing, I hadn't thought of allergies. Maybe linseed oil is the way to go, a bit of research is needed I think.O' Dave of Magicness
Well it's your username, ain't it?
Here's another very pure and rather pale linseed oil: https://www.dictum.com/de/oberflaech...-gebleicht-1-l
I've used stuff from High Barn Linseed and although it darkened or yellowed the wood, it was high quality stuff. Good enough to eat!
"There is a willow grows aslant a brook,
That shows his hoar leaves in the glassy stream." - William Shakespeare
For sure it is.Well it's your username, ain't it?
hello,
Rune I've used wheat germ & sesame oil seems to do the trick. I agree with Ashley as well BTW & yes a Great little sub-topic by the way.
Regards
David
Has anyone any thoughts on, or has tried, using a food safe pure mineral oil?
It might be useful to show the product I have in mind, http://brandonbespoke.co.uk they do 3 products a pure mineral oil, pure miner oil plus (extra durability) and a wax oil.
The thing that caught my eye, other than being advertised as food safe is one of their customers feedback.
I can't find much relating to what the legislation set down by the food standards agency is, but I found somewhere (wikipedia I think it was) that says mineral oils contain some e number chemical that isn't allowed as a food ingredient within the EU but for finishing chopping boards and wooden utensils it is fine. I'm kind of assuming (which can be a bad thing to do) that the standards would include something relating to alergies.Woods World Wide by Williams takes pride in producing high quality hand crafted wooden products for use in the catering industry. As such we want a high quality oil finish meeting all of the legislation set down by the Food Standards Agency. We have found Brandon Bespoke have listened to our requirements and they provide a first class service. We are proud to use their products.
Last edited by Magicdave; 29-03-2015 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Added info
I got an email back from brandonbespoke. He says the pure mineral oil has no known allergy warnings, but the mineral oil plus and the wax may have traces of nuts.
Just a wee update, I've been using this, brandonbespoke pure mineral oil. It is beautiful, but something I never stumbled across on my research is that mineral oil is a surface finish, it does't penetrate the wood.
I'll keep using it. I've not tested this yet but I think it should work great. First finish with linseed oil, then follow with the pure mineral oil. That way it gets a great slow drying soak and is easier/quicker to maintain.