Making an Arrow

[CanadianMike]

Edwin, good rule of thumb! Lol

Ben, problem is, it's distracting me from other things I want/need to do, such as knifework, etc. Funny how I'm playing 'Spin The Bottle' with this!!

Anyways, I posted a pic on FB, here it is and what I typed under, seriously useful info!!!



"Arrows don't lie! Don't have a spine weight tester, so took the risk of shooting at 10ft or so in the garage, the two green nocked arrows are my usual carbon arrows, one with new feathers, shot one 3/8" poplar dowel (without fletching, shows it's a bit over spined for my bow, and the 5/16" dowel to the left is underspined, it flung a LOT to the left. Will just use the remaining 5/16" dowels to make arrows for my slingshots."

My recurve is around 45lbs at 28", but because my draw length is about 29", from what I read, you have to add another 5lbs of spine weight to the arrow to accomodate that +5lbs per inch over or or -5lbs for under 28". At least poplar is so easy to sand, I can use 100x sandpaper on my shafts and tune the arrows I make out of the 3/8" dowel I buy in the future. Unfortunately, I lost my metal broadhead in the foam block after a couple shots. At least I can recover it later when I'm about to chuck the thing out. Lol

Still, an arrow at close range that is underweight will swing left, an overweight arrow will swing right. This is exactly what my picture shows. I have to do this at a longer distance and target at shoulder level, because the vertical angle of the arrow says things about the nocking point, too high or too low. My arrows are high at the nock end, have to look into this and sort out where my nocking point is on my new string, might have to lower it or raise it. Archers Paradox is a pain in the butt!

Just noticed the straightest arrow I shot was the one with feathers, makes total sense because the plastic vanes will hump over the arrow rest, where feathers will just separate strands, flatten and carry on like nothing was there in the way. Man, a picture DOES say a thousand words!!!!

[Ben Casey]

Hi Mike thats really cool I still have a lot to learn Anyway here are the last of my pics on the arrow I have made yesterday and today So my next project is to make a bow to try and shoot it and see what happens a bit like your tests The only thing is in making it myself I won't know any wieghts or draws

Oh well I will try anything once

[Adam Savage]

Isn't it illegal to bow hunt for sofas in the UK?

[Ben Casey]

Isn't it illegal to bow hunt for sofas in the UK?

Whoops I better go check the law books

[CanadianMike]

Isn't it illegal to bow hunt for sofas in the UK?

Oops, I thought that was the point of choice for him for big game, launch a couch at the animal for maximum blunt force trauma!!!! DOH!

[Adam Savage]

Or use it as a dead fall

[CanadianMike]

That works too, in case he has mice or woodlice (like RoadKillPhil) in his flat. Lol

[Ben Casey]

Just wait Adam I will have you making bows after the R.V. LOL

[Al21]

If you wanted really secure knocks then you can cut a slot with the grain but deeper than your planned knock, glue in a sliver of hardwood to fill slot and then turn the shaft 90 degrees and cut your finished slot across the original grain and the insert. It will be supported by the inserted wood.

I've seen thin pieces of horn used like this to strengthen knocks too.

Al

[Ben Casey]

I've seen thin pieces of horn used like this to strengthen knocks too.
Al

I have seen this on some videos on the net but I'm not sure if I have the right sized arrows they seem a bit thin the ones I bought are BOYTON PINE ARROW SHAFTS 11/32 - 55/60. but I will try one out when I get my bow made and see what happens Any tips on sizes would be great though as I'm just learning but from the learning it is a great experience and very relaxing in it's way