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Thread: Review: Mora Classic No. 2 - Updated w. field test!

  1. #11
    Moderator JEEP's Avatar
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    Looks like it, yes. It is called the #137.

    These were made for a limited time only. They are still to be found, but they are getting rarer. Too bad they are the size of the Classic No.1 though, I do prefer the larger handle of the No.2.

  2. #12
    Moderator JEEP's Avatar
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    Second part; field testing!

    I really had a ton of indoor projects I had to do today, but the weather was simply too nice to stay inside. My inner voice, which in this case sounded an awful lot like Dave Canterbury, told me that I was a F****n' dumb ass if I stayed inside today
    I stirred Maria out of bed, packed a bag with food and gear, threw both in the car – and headed off to the open camp ground at Brigsted.
    This time bringing a bag of dry firewood of my own. Something which turned out to be a good call, as someone had decided to scatter the tinder and firewood, we had left to dry inside the shelter last time we were there, over the immediate area. It seems that someone had tried to start a fire, failed – and then decided that no one else should be able to either, scattering the tinder and firewood in frustration. I swear; some people...!! I really need to move somewhere with less dense population!
    After a hearty breakfast, consisting of green tea and beef sausages with eggs and parmesan cheese, cooked on my Trangia multi fuel, I popped the Mora around my neck and started working.





    I did not sharpen the knife prior to – or during – this test btw.
    In order to give an all round impression of the capabilities and quality of the knife and accessories, I have put it through two basic camp chores:

    1. Preparing firewood/kindling; batoning, chopping and feathersticking
    2. Making a basic tent peg, utilizing basic cutting techniques, as shown in this video: http://www.naturalbushcraft.co.uk/ca...ft-basics.html

    Preparing firewood/kindling:



    Batoning and chopping: Splitting firewood and preparing kindling with this blade is easy work with this blade - especially considering that this knife is marketed as a craftsman’s knife, not a bushcraft knife. Ideally a slightly thicker, longer and broader blade would be more suited for the task, but the blade still performs very well.
    Having nearly finished splitting firewood/kindling I noticed that a tiny piece of the spine, at the very tip of the blade, had broken of. Due to the quite rough finish of the spine, where the lamination is very apparent, this was not entirely surprising. I gave the tip of the blade a good whacking, while finishing the kindling; nothing more came off. A few strokes on my DC4, after the test, removed any trace of the piece coming off.
    Due to it's light weight, this knife is no chopper on it's own. But, pared with a baton, it performs OK. Again; a thicker, longer and especially broader blade would do a better/faster job.
    Though the spine of the blade is fairly rough, it did only slight damage to the baton.
    One thing I noticed while batoning, is that every blow resonates heavily up into my hand/arm – much more than I am used to from knives with wooden handles. I believe this is due to the tang only extending 75% into the handle, instead of being riveted through the end. This is a fairly recent change to the Mora Classic line. In the future, when buying these knives, I will look for the “old” version with the riveted tang. The more up scale (and expensive) Mora Classics like the #137 and Classic Originals all have riveted tangs.



    Feathersticking: Even for a fairly inexperienced feathersticker like myself, feathersticking with this knife is very easy – effortless even. The extreme sharp factory edge and scandi grind makes this knife simply ideal for feathersticking.





    Due to the rough finish of the spine, it is ideal to be used as a striker for a Swedish firesteel. I am not a big fan of using the spine of a blade as a striker, as I find it both cumbersome and somewhat of a safety hazard – but of all the knives I have ever done this with, this is by far the most efficient one!
    Inspired my Mors Kochanski and Cody Lundin, I also tried striking the spine with a random piece of flint, picked up from the ground; it easily threw bright orange sparks! There is no doubt this could work, when paired with a piece of charcloth or amadou. Though, this practice means that you will have to strike the spine, while holding the edge of the blade, something that could easily go very wrong. But it is by all means possible – yet rather hard on the spine of the blade.

    Time for a quick brew, then on to the whittling:

    Making a basic tent peg:



    Push cut with a stop: This is the kind of task this knife is made for! Whittling/carving with this knife is extremely satisfying and very comfortable.
    The handle is shaped perfectly for various grips, the texture of the paint is equally comfortable and gives a secure grip, the blade is, as mentioned before, extremely sharp (even after continued batoning) and the scandi grind causes the edge to simply melt trough the wood.
    I had initially feared that the rough spine would be uncomfortable to place your thumb on, but it wasn't at all. If anything; it added to a more secure grip.

    Lever cut: Again; highly efficient and most enjoyable! No hot spots or sharp edges on the handle. This is a knife I believe I could work with for a very long time, without experiencing fatigue or blisters.

    Conclusion, practical test:
    This knife is everything it promises to be; a craftsman’s knife superb for finer work. Yet, it will do rougher work as well – and well enough.
    It is not hard to understand why this knife has been a favourite among Scandinavian craftsmen for more than a century.

    Summary:
    A highly capable knife, yet mostly suited for finer work. This knife is the puukko, industrialized. - I can't think of a better way to describe it really.
    As far as looks go, I own much prettier knives – many of them equally as capable and as well built as this one. But, none of them costing even close to as little as £17. I guess that is really the point with this knife; for your money, this is a bargain that is hard to beat when it comes to functionality and build quality.
    One could argue that the Mora Clipper/Companion is a better bargain, as it is cheaper – but, considering the difference in steel quality (laminated steel vs. stamped blade), the Classic wins the comparison in my book.
    Due to the 3/4 tang construction, the blade will get loose in the handle after continued batoning over time – and because the tang is only 3/4, it is not possible to peen the tang. This is, imho, the only real disadvantage of this knife. For that reason, I will recommend carrying and using this knife as a carving knife, it's intended purpose – and carry a hatchet or leuku for rougher work. Which is the traditional Scandinavian way really.
    The sheath is, aside from the belt hanger, functional and seems very safe – I will, however, most likely exchange it for a leather one, due to personal preferences and aesthetics.

    Out of ten stars, I rate this knife:
    Design: *********
    Quality: ********
    Performance: ********
    Accessories (scabbard, etc.): ******
    Price: **********

    Overall: 8,2 stars out of 10


    Will I recommend this knife: Definitely. Especially if you are after a high quality carving knife at an unbeatable price – while not being too picky about aesthetics.

    A short note on carrying a knife around your neck:
    In the spirit of Mors Kochanski and Cody Lundin, I decided to carry this knife around my neck for this test. I was quite sceptical about this, as I normally do not like having stuff dangling from my neck. But, I must admit that I am now close to absolutely sold on the concept!
    Carrying my knife this way is a lot more convenient than carrying it on my belt; I have noticed that, instead of putting the knife down, sticking it into a log (a habit that I have a had time beating) or simply walk around the knife in my hand, I am much more likely to sheath the knife when stopping in my work for a short while, when carrying the knife around my neck. This is both safer and minimizes the risk of loosing the knife.
    I was also concerned about the weight of the knife. But, a lightweight knife like this is hardly felt really – not even when moving around.
    Some has pointed out that carrying your knife around your neck is a safety hazard. I can easily see what they mean; falling on the knife in a bad angle could drive the blade through the tip of the sheath, causing it to continue into your face or abdomen. But, if the knife is carried on a short enough cord (just big enough to fit over your head) and the knife is tucked in under your shirt/jacket when moving around, it is no more hazardous than carrying it on your belt.
    Last edited by JEEP; 18-12-2011 at 06:26 PM.

  3. #13
    Thanks Jeep for finishing the review which is an excellent read, i have been using my No.2 for a couple of years now and I hartly agree with your comments, it certainly packs a punch well over its cost and weight. Probably why recomended by the master himself

  4. #14
    Alone in the Wilderness
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    like to have a knive like that one....

  5. #15
    Bushman bikebum1975's Avatar
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    Good write up Jeep. I have only had a Mora for a couple months now myself but I absolutely LOVE it my all time favorite blade I have ever got my hands on. Like ya said bout the classic mine ain't pretty but she sure is one hell of a good cutter. Besides I can beat the crap out of a Mora and not really cry to much if it did happen to break on me which I highly doubt
    “I'm not one of those complicated, mixed-up cats. I'm not looking for the secret to life.... I just go on from day to day, taking what comes.” ~Frank Sinatra~


    " Nessmuk " says:
    " We do not go to the woods to rough it ; we go to
    smooth it — we get it rough enough in town. But
    let us live the simple, natural life in the woods, and

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